Diamonds have always been a favourite mainstay of most desired & worn jewellery throughout time immemorial ! There are as many different cuts of diamonds as there are shapes . The most desired shape & cut of diamond would be the round brilliant cut as it is the best for sparkle as it turns out it has 58 facets & 57 when there is no culet which means no point at the bottom of the stone. You will always pay more for a round brilliant cut diamond than you would if it was any other shape. Every facet has a job to do in reflecting light & the better the cut the better the brilliance & sparkle of a diamond. For you the buyer of diamonds, it’s important to note that a diamond too shallow is almost as bad as a diamond too deep since the shallow diamond won’t emit enough light for a nice sparkle & a rather deep diamond will have a smaller table width than would normally be the case for it’s expected carat weight which would also not be showing or looking as big a diamond as you would expect for such a carat weight. I personally think diamonds perhaps starting at 0.50ct upwards should be properly certified such as with G.I.A. / I.G.I. / HRD to name the best for your perfect ring.
Carat weight is all to do with the weight & size of a stone whether a diamond or another precious gemstone. It’s the ratio & the spread of weight throughout the stone as to whether it will sparkle brilliantly or not. Many people don’t realise that you can buy perhaps a 0.96/0.97/0.98 carat diamond for sometimes a little less than the premium price a 1.00 carat weight diamond would command. You definitely will not see a weight/size difference for 0.03/0.02 carat weight but you will pay less for it! Same goes for any diamond carat weight nearing another tenth of a carat etc., Some of you may be interested in buying maybe a 2.00 carat round brilliant diamond but it doesn’t mean that it will automatically cost you twice the price of a 1.00 carat weight diamond, it will cost an awful lot more the larger it gets as the larger the diamond & other details such as clarity & colour also come into play but if colours & clarities are the same it becomes more expensive as they become more rare a diamond the higher the carat.
Colour on the other hand is also very much part of your evaluating list when it comes to buying your diamond. The highest diamond colour registered is ‘ D ‘ & then it descends alphabetically to ‘Z ‘. The colours rated as D, E, F & G are usually the most sought after while the colour I starts to show a very very slight tint of yellow & becomes more prominent the further you go down the scale & would be especially more noticeable the further you go, so K & L will show a lot more of a yellow tint in the white diamond. Some people value size, meaning carat size of a diamond rather than colour & clarity. Me personally, would probably never go below a H colour! On another note, it’s also true to say that it’s not necessary to buy a D,E or F colour diamond as a G visually to the naked eye looks the same whiteness as even the D colour so why pay for D if you can get G that looks the same for sometimes a lot less depending on carat size ? It’s just a personal choice. Fluorescence also has a decider with some peoplewho don’t mind it & some people won’t consider it in any way because they think it takes away from the diamond but it is honestly not perceived by the naked eye at all unless extremely strong & then you may perceive a slight milkiness in the diamond. Fluorescence can be beneficial to a lower colour diamond as fluorescence usually glows 95% blue which can boost the lower colour to be whiter .
Clarity is also a huge part of the certification & valuation process for buying diamonds as it is one of the four ‘C’s . The most important part for you as a buyer to consider is that you shouldn’t go below an SI2 clarity but I would usually say go for SI1 which means any inclusions in the diamond would be certified unseen by the naked eye whereas SI2 is supposed to be seen by the naked eye if you look hard enough but obviously if the diamond is small like a 0.30/ 0.40 carat or smaller it’s virtually impossible to see with the naked eye never mind using 10 x loupe. Inclusions can be black or white, can be like a feather, a bubble or a line. Some like black ones can be seen more easily & you don’t want any inclusion near the centre of your diamond whatever about the sides as you will always focus on the centre of it when looking at it. The clarity scale is FL- IF which is the highest grade & means internally flawless, then comes VVS1 -VVS2, which is very very slight inclusions, VVS1 being slightly higher grade than VVS2, then comes VS1-VS2 which is very slight inclusions, again VS1 is higher than VS2 & then comes SI1 which is what I totally recommend & then SI2 which I would personally only buy in smaller diamonds which state slight inclusions but SI2 is technically graded as you can see with the naked eye & below this which I don’t recommend is I1-I3 which are termed as imperfect. If you are thinking of buying an emerald cut for example I would always go as high a clarity as possible because of the less facets you can see clearly through these with the naked eye so I would probably recommend VVS1 -VVS2 or VS1 or VS2 at the lowest. This is why certification of your diamond for your perfect ring is vital especially from reknowned certification houses such as G.I.A./I.G.I. & HRD.
Cut is all to do with precsion & symmetry & how the cuts create a beautiful diamond for you to enjoy looking at. There are many cuts/shapes of diamonds, round brilliant being the most popoular by far but next probably would be the princess cut which is a square brilliant cut diamond with pointed edges. The cushion cut diamond combines the brilliance of the square cut with rounded corners & it used to be called the old mine cut which came into play about 200 years ago. The asscher cut is also in the square category but has less cuts than the princess cut but it has what looks like concentric squares with larger step cuts than an emerald cut which has less cuts again but the asscher is making a comeback as it really is a lovely cut with it’s cut corners too. Moving from squares to rectangles we have the aforementioned emerald cut diamonds which have a less is more feel to it’s cut as it’s like mirrors mirroring eachother with it’s quite open table view & step cuts. This emerald cut would have stemmed from the cut used for actual green emeralds & then was used for diamonds. If you like less sparkle & more clean lines, the emerald cut is for you. Radiant cut diamonds have a tendency to be either square or rectangle also but have more brilliance due to their cuts like the princess cut. The radiant cut diamond has a complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied to both the crown & the pavillion. We move on now to other fancy cuts which are anything but round brilliant cuts, namely the pear cut which is a brilliant cut in the shape of a pear narrow & pointed at one end & wider & curved at the other while the marquise cut which is another popular fancy cut is like a boat shape & also brilliant in cut but modified which has an equally pointed end at both ends. If you like symmetry, you will love the symmetry in a marquise cut diamond. We can also add oval cut diamonds to the popular list of fancy cut diamonds especially as it is a modified brilliant cut diamond & has the added advantage of being elongated in shape & can give the impression of a larger diamond with all the brilliance. Finally as regards another popular cut diamond but not usually as a single stone is the baguette cut diamond which is a long slender elongated linear diamond which would more usually be used as a shoulder stone or channel set stone in a wedding band.
Phew! Well I hope this article helps you all to choose your perfect diamond for your perfect ring with a little more knowledge.
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Thank you for taking the time to read my article, any feedback would be welcome.
Until the next time, Peter.